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(Have someone watch the green IR
LED on the IRP6+ while you aim a
remote control at a remote sensor
and press a button).
• IR Test LED Flashes: Go to Step 12
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 25
25) Bad Connections at the IRP6+
and/or at the Sensor/Keypad.
Verify that all connections are good
both at the IRP6+ Sensor Inputs and
at the remote sensor/keypad. Check
that the jacket of each conductor has
been properly stripped and inserted
into the connector. Examine the con-
nectors for a hair-like filament of wire
between any of the contacts. Repair
as necessary. Retest the system (have
someone watch the green IR LED on
the IRP6+ while you aim a remote
control at a remote sensor and press
a button).
• IR Test LED Flashes:
Congratulations!
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 26
26) Test Cable for Shorts
Disconnect the cable at both ends
(at the sensor and at the IRP6+) and
test it for shorts. Use an ohm meter
or electrical continuity checker. You
should read an open (Infinite Ohms)
between Red and Bare, Red and
Black or Bare and Black. If you find a
short, replace or repair the cable as
necessary. Retest the system (Have
someone watch the green IR LED on
the IRP6+ while you aim a remote
control at a remote sensor and press
a button).
• IR Test LED Flashes:
Congratulations!
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 27
27) Test Cable for Opens
At one end of the cable, twist the
exposed copper ends of the Red (+)
and the bare (GND) conductors
together. At the other end of the
cable, use an Ohm meter or continu-
ity checker to check for a break in the
cable. You should read a short (zero
ohms) between the exposed copper
ends of the Red (+) and the bare
(GND) conductors. Repeat this test
with the Red (+) and the Black
(DATA) conductors. If you find an
open, replace or repair the cable as
necessary. Retest the system (have
someone watch the green IR LED on
the IRP6+ while you aim a remote
control at a remote sensor and press
a button).
• IR Test LED Flashes:
Congratulations!
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 28
28) Connect Sensor to Other Input
of the IRP6+
Disconnect the sensor and reconnect
it to another sensor input on the
IRP6+. Retest the system (Have
someone watch the green IR LED on
the IRP6+ while you aim a remote
control at a remote sensor and press
a button).
• IR Test LED Flashes:
Congratulations!
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 29
29) Replace the IRP6+ and/or the
Sensor/Keypad
If you have another IRP6+, sensor or
keypad, change it and retest the sys-
tem, otherwise return the IRP6+ and
the sensor/keypads to your local
Niles dealer for testing.
30) Disconnect All Sensors and
Keypads
Observe the IR Test LED.
• IR Test LED is ON or Flickering:
Go to Step 33
• IR Test LED is OFF: Go to Step 35
31) Move the IRP6+ to avoid
Electromagnetic Interference
It is possible that the IRP6+ is receiv-
ing electromagnetic interference
from a nearby television or other
appliance. Move the IRP6+ to anoth-
er location and reconnect the power
supply. Observe the IR Test LED.
• IR Test LED is ON or Flickering:
Go to Step 34
• IR Test LED is OFF: You have EMI
in your original location. Relocate
the IRP6+ according to the guide-
lines found in the Installation
Considerations section.
32) Replace the IRP6+
If you have another IRP6+, exchange
it and retest the system, otherwise,
return the IRP6+ to your local Niles
dealer for testing.
33) Test First Sensor Input
Connect one sensor/keypad to the
first Sensor Input. Observe the IR Test
LED.
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 36
• IR Test LED is On or Flickering:
Go to Step 37
34) Test Remaining Sensor Inputs
A) If you DO NOT have a second
sensor/keypad, Go to Step 12.
B) If you DO have another sensor/key-
pad, connect it to the second sensor
input. Observe the IR Test LED.
• IR Test LED is On or Flickering:
Go to Step 37
• IR Test LED Off: Go to Step 12
35) Test for Shorts
A) Verify that all connections at the
IRP6+ are correct. Look for a hair-like
filament of wire between the two
contacts.
B) Verify that the sensor/keypad con-
nections are correct. Look for a hair-
like filament of wire between the two
contacts.
C) Disconnect the sensor/keypad
cable at both ends and test the cable
itself for shorts. Use an ohm meter or
electrical continuity checker. You
should read an open (Infinite Ohms)
between Red and Bare, Red and
Black or Bare and Black. After testing
all connections and cable, observe
the IR test LED.
• IR Test LED is On or Flickering:
Go to Step 38
• IR Test LED is Off: Congratulations
36) Test for Optical Interference
Reconnect the problematic
sensor/keypad to the IRP6+. Cover up
the Sensor with a piece of cardboard
(your hand will actually create elec-
tromagnetic interference under some
conditions). Observe the IR test LED.
• IR Test LED On or Flickering: Go
to 37
• IR Test LED Off: Go to 36
37) Optical Interference
Identify the source of the interfer-
ence. The most common sources of
optical interference are listed in the
order of their probability:
Troubleshooting Guide continued
A) Sunlight. Reflections from win-
dows, mirrors, swimming pools,
shiny floors or objects.
B) Fluorescent light fixtures.
C) Neon signs.
D) A malfunctioning IR Remote
Control.
E) A malfunctioning Infrared Motion
Detector on your Security system.
Either re-orient the sensor or move
the source of interference. Niles
infrared sensors have built-in filters to
attenuate the effect of visible light. If
you add additional filtration you will
reduce the effectiveness of the sys-
tem with remote controls as well as
the interference.
If you are using the MS-1 or the MS-2
miniature sensors consider exchang-
ing them for IRR-4D, TIR-1 or the
CMS-3 ceiling sensor. These three
sensors have AGC circuits which
serve as automatic filters.
If you choose to attempt to filter an
MS-1 or MS-2, try a temporary mate-
rial (e.g. a single thickness of facial
tissue) and test whether filtration will
solve the interference and still give
acceptable range.
38) Electromagnetic Interference
(EMI)
Identify the source of the interfer-
ence. The most common sources of
electromagnetic interference are list-
ed in the order of their probability:
A) Televisions (particularly large
direct view sets).
B) Wall-mounted light dimmers or
variable speed controls for ceiling
fans. These controls emit more inter-
ference when turned down halfway.
They emit little or no interference
when turned up all the way (bright-
est position).
C) Fluorescent lights (the electronic
ballast sometimes emits EMI)
D) Large appliances (air-conditioners,
pumps, motors, compressors etc.)
E) AC line noise (noise brought into
the system via the wall outlet con-
nected to the IRP6+) Identify the EMI
source by turning potential sources
on and off (or fully up and fully
down) and watching for any change
in the IR Test LED on your IRP6+.
Once you have identified the source
of interference:
1) Move the sensor or the sensor
cable away from the EMI source
or
move the source of the EMI
away from the sensor or the cable.
2) Shield the sensor with a metal J-
Box.
3) Connect the Sensor’s GND termi-
nal to true earth ground (if this
isn’t feasible use the IRP6+ GND
terminal).
4) Place a ferrite ring around the
cable creating the interference.
Ferrite rings can be purchased
from an electronic supply store.
Troubleshooting Guide continued
By adding an IntelliPad™ to your
IRP6+ Infrared Extender System you
will add a remarkable level of conve-
nience to your system. The IntelliPad
is the world’s first programmable,
wall-mounted keypad system that
provides a unique LED power status
display and the convenience of true
one-touch remote control of com-
plex audio/video systems.
The IntelliPad’s status feedback fea-
ture eliminates the guesswork com-
mon with standard IR control sys-
tems. The power LED on the
IntelliPad indicates the On/Off condi-
tion of the system’s preamp/receiver.
Built-in intelligence tracks the On/Off
condition of the preamp/receiver so
the IntelliPad knows when it’s appro-
priate to issue the power command,
even when the user doesn’t. The sys-
tem maintains perfect synchroniza-
tion between the amplifier and the
user.
By combining an optional Niles 12v
DC power supply with your IRP6+
you can send a status signal to an
IntelliPad without running any addi-
tional wiring. Built into the IRP6+ is a
Niles Status Signal Generator. When
the IRP6+ sees 12v DC at the status
jack it broadcasts a Status signal over
your existing IR sensor wires. Any
IntelliPad connected to one of your
sensor wires will display power status.
IMPORTANT: For the IntelliPad’s
status feedback feature to work,
the pre-amp/receiver controlling
your system should have a
switched AC outlet, a switched
outlet is a 120v AC outlet that
switches off, when the preamp/
receiver is off and switches on
when it is on.
Power Status—Introduction
Status LED
When the preamp/receiver is on,
the status LED is lit. The color of
the LED displays whether the
local speakers are on or muted.
GREEN - Local Speakers and
the Preamp/Receiver are on
RED - Local speakers are off,
but the system is on.
OFF - System is off.
Source Control Keys
Source Control keys operate the selected source.
Mute Key
Controls the IntelliPad’s built-in speaker mute
feature.You can mute local speakers by press-
ing the Mute key. To turn the local speakers
back on (or unmute), press either the Mute key
or one of the six Source Select keys.
Volume Key
This key raises
and lowers the
volume of your
main system
amplifier.
Source Select Keys
A single press of one of these keys can:
1. Turn on the preamp/receiver if it was off.
2. Change the input of your preamp/receiver to the
selected source.
3. Change the function of the Source Control Keys
so that they operate the selected source.
4. Display which source is selected by backlighting
the corresponding Source Label
.
5. Turn on the local speakers
Figure 6 The IntelliPad